Yee haw… it was short but it was a ride, on a myth, a raith, a legend… 3 miles clocked on the XR 75 Hurricane…
Yee haw… it was short but it was a ride, on a myth, a raith, a legend… 3 miles clocked on the XR 75 Hurricane…
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
Reportedly the most dangerous sporting event on the planet. The Isle of Man, as a race circuit, has been running annually since 1904. And it’s happening now.
There is regular talk of the race being shut down. It is simply too dangerous. But there is, luckily, enough interest and participation to keep it going…

Many have never heard of the deadliest motorsports race in the world. Many will suggest a different race. Was it the German Grand Prix when it was held on the Nurburgring Nordschleife? Not even close. The Dakar Rally? You’re still way off. The World Rally Championship, particularly the fatality-prone Group B series? Think again.
At most, those races had deaths that were merely in the double digits. But at the Isle of Man Tourist Trophy motorcycle race, a whopping 135 people have been killed during official competition over the past 105 years (237 if you include the amateur Manx Grand Prix).
The Isle of Man is punctuated by incredibly high speeds on a course with over 200 curves…
| Category | Rider(s) | Machine | Year | Time | Average speed |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Outright | Bruce Anstey | BA Honda CBR1000RR | 2014 | 17:06.682 | 132.298 miles per hour (212.913 km/h) |
| Superbike TT | Bruce Anstey | BA Honda CBR1000RR | 2014 | 17:06.682 | 132.298 miles per hour (212.913 km/h) |
| Supersport TT | Michael Dunlop | Honda CBR600RR | 2013 | 17:35.659 | 128.666 miles per hour (207.068 km/h) |
| Lightweight TT (Snaefell) | James Hillier | Kawasaki ER650 | 2013 | 19:00.168 | 119.130 miles per hour (191.721 km/h) |
| Lightweight TT (Billown) | Chris Palmer | Honda | 2009 | 2:29.068 | 102.321 miles per hour (164.670 km/h) |
| Ultra-Lightweight TT (Snaefell) | Chris Palmer | Honda | 2004 | 20:20.87 | 110.52 miles per hour (177.86 km/h) |
| Ultra-Lightweight TT (Billown) | Ian Lougher | Honda | 2009 | 2:39.291 | 94.911 miles per hour (152.744 km/h) |
| Senior TT | Michael Dunlop | BMW S1000RR | 2014 | 17:11.591 | 131.668 miles per hour (211.899 km/h) |
| Superstock TT | Michael Dunlop | Honda CBR1000RR | 2013 | 17:15.114 | 131.220 miles per hour (211.178 km/h) |
| TT Zero | John McGuinness | Mugen Shinden | 2014 | 19:17.300 | 117.366 miles per hour (188.882 km/h) |
| Sidecar TT | Nick Crowe and Daniel Sayle |
LCR Honda 600 Sidecar | 2007 | 19:24.24 | 116.667 miles per hour (187.757 km/h) |
The track is 38 miles in distance… And the racing is insane…

Listed are fatalities of riders in the World Grand Prix Motorcycle Racing Championship races since its foundation in 1949.
| Rider | Date of accident | Race | Class | Circuit | Bike | During | Ref |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| June 13, 1949 | 1949 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [1] | |
| July 17, 1949 | 1949 Belgian Grand Prix | Sidecar | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | Norton | Race | [2] | |
| July 17, 1949 | 1949 Belgian Grand Prix | Sidecar | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | Norton | Race | [2] | |
| July 2, 1950 | 1950 Belgian Grand Prix | 350 cc | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | Velocette | Race | [3] | |
| May 31, 1951 | 1951 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Rudge | Practice | [4] | |
| June 4, 1951 | 1951 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [5] | |
| June 8, 1951 | 1951 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [6] | |
| July 14, 1951 | 1951 French Grand Prix | 250 cc | Circuit d’Albi | Benelli | Practice | [7] | |
| August 15, 1951 | 1951 Ulster Grand Prix | 250 cc | Clady Circuit | Moto Guzzi | Practice | [7] | |
| August 15, 1951 | 1951 Ulster Grand Prix | 250 cc | Clady Circuit | Moto Guzzi | Practice | [7] | |
| May 18, 1952 | 1952 Swiss Grand Prix | 500 cc | Circuit Bremgarten | Norton | Race | [8] | |
| May 18, 1952 | 1952 Swiss Grand Prix | Sidecar | Circuit Bremgarten | Gilera | Race | [8] | |
| June 4, 1952 | 1952 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Practice | [8] | |
| August 16, 1952 | 1952 Ulster Grand Prix | 350 cc | Clady Circuit | Norton | Race | [9] | |
| June 8, 1953 | 1953 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [10] | |
| June 8, 1953 | 1953 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | AJS | Race | [10] | |
| June 12, 1953 | 1953 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | MV Agusta | Race | [10] | |
| June 12, 1953 | 1953 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [10] | |
| July 5, 1953 | 1953 Belgian Grand Prix | 500 cc | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | AJS | Race | [10] | |
| June 18, 1954 | 1954 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Velocette | Race | [11] | |
| July 4, 1954 | 1954 Belgian Grand Prix | 350 cc | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | Norton | Race | [12] | |
| July 25, 1954 | 1954 German Grand Prix | 500 cc | Solitudering | BSA | Race | [13] | |
| September 11, 1954 | 1954 Nations Grand Prix | 125 cc | Autodromo Nazionale Monza | NSU | Practice | [14] | |
| June 25, 1955 | 1955 German Grand Prix | 500 cc | Nürburgring | Norton | Practice | [15] | |
| August 11, 1955 | 1955 Ulster Grand Prix | 350 cc | Dundrod Circuit | Norton | Race | [15] | |
| August 9, 1956 | 1956 Ulster Grand Prix | 350 cc | Dundrod Circuit | Moto Guzzi | Race | [16] | |
| June 7, 1957 | 1957 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | BSA | Race | [17] | |
| June 28, 1957 | 1957 Dutch TT | Sidecar | TT Circuit Assen | BMW | Practice | [18] | |
| July 6, 1957 | 1957 Belgian Grand Prix | 350 cc | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | MV Agusta | Practice | [19] | |
| May 26, 1958 | 1958 Isle of Man TT | Snaefell Mountain Course | AJS | Practice | [20] | ||
| June 6, 1958 | 1958 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [21] | |
| September 6, 1959 | 1959 Nations Grand Prix | 500 cc | Autodromo Nazionale Monza | Norton | Race | [22] | |
| June 25, 1960 | 1960 Dutch TT | 350 cc | TT Circuit Assen | AJS | Race | [23] | |
| July 24, 1960 | 1960 German Grand Prix | 250 cc | Solitudering | Honda | Practice | [23] | |
| June 10, 1961 | 1961 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Practice | [24] | |
| June 12, 1961 | 1961 Isle of Man TT | Sidecar | Snaefell Mountain Course | BMW | Race | [25] | |
| June 16, 1961 | 1961 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [26] | |
| August 9, 1961 | 1961 Ulster Grand Prix | 350 cc | Dundrod Circuit | Norton | Practice | [27] | |
| June 6, 1962 | 1962 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Honda | Race | [28] | |
| June 6, 1962 | 1962 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | AJS | Race | [28] | |
| June 29, 1962 | 1962 Dutch TT | 250 cc | TT Circuit Assen | NSU | Practice | [29] | |
| June 1, 1963 | 1963 French Grand Prix | 250 cc | Charade Circuit | Moto Morini | Practice | [30] | |
| June 2, 1964 | 1964 Isle of Man TT | Sidecar | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Practice | [31] | |
| June 8, 1964 | 1964 Isle of Man TT | Sidecar | Snaefell Mountain Course | Matchless | Race | [32] | |
| June 26, 1964 | 1964 Dutch TT | 125 cc | TT Circuit Assen | Honda | Practice | [33] | |
| July 19, 1964 | 1964 German Grand Prix | 500 cc | Solitudering | Norton | Race | [34] | |
| August 29, 1964 | 1964 Finnish Grand Prix | 350 cc | Imatra Circuit | AJS | Race | [35] | |
| June 25, 1966 | 1966 Dutch TT | Sidecar | TT Circuit Assen | Matchless | Race | [36] | |
| August 26, 1966 | 1966 Isle of Man TT | 125 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Kawasaki | Practice | [37] | |
| August 28, 1966 | 1966 Isle of Man TT | 250 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Yamaha | Race | [38] | |
| June 10, 1967 | 1967 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Practice | [39] | |
| July 16, 1967 | 1967 East German Grand Prix | Sachsenring | MZ | Practice | [40] | ||
| June 10, 1968 | 1968 Isle of Man TT | 250 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Kawasaki | Race | [41] | |
| July 7, 1968 | 1968 Belgian Grand Prix | Sidecar | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | BMW | Race | [42] | |
| July 7, 1968 | 1968 Belgian Grand Prix | Sidecar | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | BMW | Race | [42] | |
| October 13, 1968 | 1968 Hockenheim Grand Prix [N 1] | Sidecar | Hockenheimring | BMW | Race | [44] | |
| June 6, 1969 | 1969 Isle of Man TT | 350 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Velocette | Practice | [45] | |
| July 12, 1969 | 1969 East German Grand Prix | 350 cc | Sachsenring | Jawa | Practice | [46] | |
| July 20, 1969 | 1969 Czechoslovakian Grand Prix | 350 cc | Brno Circuit | Jawa | Race | [47] | |
| May 2, 1970 | 1970 German Grand Prix | 350 cc | Nürburgring | Norton | Practice | [48] | |
| June 1, 1970 | 1970 Isle of Man TT | 125 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Bultaco | Practice | [49] | |
| June 3, 1970 | 1970 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Seeley | Practice | [50] | |
| June 3, 1970 | 1970 Isle of Man TT | Sidecar | Snaefell Mountain Course | BSA | Practice | [51] | |
| June 8, 1970 | 1970 Isle of Man TT | 250 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Ossa | Race | [52] | |
| June 12, 1970 | 1970 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [53] | |
| June 12, 1970 | 1970 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Seeley | Race | [54] | |
| June 12, 1971 | 1971 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Norton | Race | [55] | |
| July 4, 1971 | 1971 Belgian Grand Prix | 500 cc | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | Kawasaki | Race | [56] | |
| July 8, 1971 | 1971 East German Grand Prix | 350 cc | Sachsenring | MZ | Practice | [57] | |
| June 9, 1972 | 1972 Isle of Man TT | 125 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Morbidelli | Race | [58] | |
| July 16, 1972 | 1972 Czechoslovakian Grand Prix | Sidecar | Brno Circuit | BMW | Race | [59] | |
| May 20, 1973 | 1973 Nations Grand Prix | 250 cc | Autodromo Nazionale Monza | Harley-Davidson | Race | [60] | |
| May 20, 1973 | 1973 Nations Grand Prix | 250 cc | Autodromo Nazionale Monza | Yamaha | Race | [60] | |
| September 8, 1974 | 1974 Yugoslavian Grand Prix | 250 cc | Opatija Circuit | Yamaha | Race | [61] | |
| June 4, 1975 | 1975 Isle of Man TT | 500 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Yamaha | Race | [62] | |
| June 28, 1975 | 1975 Dutch TT | 250 cc | TT Circuit Assen | Yamaha | Race | [63] | |
| May 16, 1976 | 1976 Nations Grand Prix | 350 cc | Mugello Circuit | Yamaha | Race | [64] | |
| May 16, 1976 | 1976 Nations Grand Prix | 250 cc | Mugello Circuit | Yamaha | Race | [65] | |
| June 7, 1976 | 1976 Isle of Man TT | Sidecar | Snaefell Mountain Course | Yamaha | Race | [66] | |
| June 12, 1976 | 1976 Isle of Man TT | 250 cc | Snaefell Mountain Course | Yamaha | Race | [67] | |
| May 1, 1977 | 1977 Austrian Grand Prix | 350 cc | Salzburgring | Yamaha | Race | [68] | |
| June 18, 1977 | 1977 Yugoslavian Grand Prix | 250 cc | Opatija Circuit | Yamaha | Practice | [69] | |
| June 19, 1977 | 1977 Yugoslavian Grand Prix | 50 cc | Opatija Circuit | Kreidler | Race | [70] | |
| August 10, 1980 | 1980 British Grand Prix | 500 cc | Silverstone Circuit | Yamaha | Race | [71] | |
| August 10, 1980 | 1980 British Grand Prix | Sidecar | Silverstone Circuit | Race | [72] | ||
| May 31, 1981 | 1981 Yugoslavian Grand Prix | 350 cc | Automotodrom Grobnik | Chevallier | Race | [73] | |
| July 11, 1981 | 1981 San Marino Grand Prix | 250 cc | Autodromo Enzo e Dino Ferrari | MBA | Practice | [74] | |
| August 30, 1981 | 1981 Czechoslovakian Grand Prix | 250 cc | Brno Circuit | Yamaha | Race | [75] | |
| August 15, 1982 | 1982 Finnish Grand Prix | Sidecar | Imatra Circuit | Windle | Race | [76] | |
| March 29, 1983 | 1983 French Grand Prix | 500 cc | Bugatti Circuit | Suzuki | Practice | [77] | |
| April 3, 1983 | 1983 French Grand Prix | 500 cc | Bugatti Circuit | Honda | Race | [77] | |
| June 12, 1983 | 1983 Yugoslavian Grand Prix | 125 cc | Automotodrom Grobnik | Race | [78] | ||
| July 31, 1983 | 1983 British Grand Prix | 500 cc | Silverstone Circuit | Suzuki | Race | [79] | |
| July 31, 1983 | 1983 British Grand Prix | 500 cc | Silverstone Circuit | Suzuki | Race | [79] | |
| July 7, 1984 | 1984 Belgian Grand Prix | 500 cc | Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps | Suzuki | Practice | [80] | |
| July 21, 1988 | 1988 French Grand Prix | Sidecar | Circuit Paul Ricard | LCR | Practice | [81] | |
| May 28, 1989 | 1989 German Grand Prix | 250 cc | Hockenheimring | Aprilia | Race | [82] | |
| May 1, 1993 | 1993 Spanish Grand Prix | 250 cc | Circuito de Jerez | Suzuki | Practice | [83] | |
| June 12, 1994 | 1994 German Grand Prix | Sidecar | Hockenheimring | LCR | Race | [84][85] | |
| April 6, 2003 | 2003 Japanese Grand Prix | MotoGP | Suzuka Circuit | Honda | Race | [86] |
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
Bummed all to hell but I broke my 85-year-old Banjo-Mandolin. I am just getting that down-ward-roll thing organised. Really enjoying this old, noisy instrument. Had the strap on and was standing, and the strap broke.
Bummed as hell, but my luthier buddy Matt says he can fix her. I dropped it off this morn. Should have it back in a week or so…
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
And it is pretty cool. Amazingly cool!
I was recently hanging at Joe Entrikan’s place; Zipolohabu Resort, on Lola Island. Joe had SiriusXM streaming Jimmy Buffet. When I drive in the states I plug-in SiriusXM. I enjoyed last year driving for days listening to the Dead, uninterrupted. I was impressed with Lola n Joe.
I am analyzing, perhaps too hard, my infection with these glorious, fucked-up islands. After all these miles, all these years n riots n troubles n births n confusion n fear, it’s still something special. In a very special, fuck-up way.
But is the rest of the world different? As fudged up or, perhaps even worse in ways? Are not the over-stressed urban centres the least beautiful of any land? Squalor is never attractive.
And there is squalor here. Sadly, an urban squalor that perhaps has no cure. Consider, the children who were 4 or 5 during the coup, are now 20. What is their world? What is their reality?
There was a time when people could “go home” to their villages. But after 3 generations of urban existence, where is home?
I think about what my buddy, Gabby, said to me last week.
I use the concept of home and look at my own family. Where is “home” for us?
All my kids call the Solomons home. I feel they have made some tough choices and are walking the subsequent walk. I am inspired by the works they have effected. They are doing a great job running a diverse island business. They work hard, play a lot and can be proud of their achievements and plans.
I get a bit jealous when I see how much fun Gizo is…
The boat that didn’t start
The LC Alcol loading in the morning sun:
Don’s stable of big toys:
Honiara has a haze over it. Lots of smoke from cook fires is standard here. Funny weather today. I’d call it “squally weather”.Loads of white-caps on the water. Blustery type winds that blow n knock plants over. I just heard a gust blow up the valley. That rattle of palm fronds with tumbling plastic bits. The wind stirs the very fine dust from the town’s streets. The dust is of a coral base and has a “talcum powder” fine-ness. The haze we see is not benevolent.
This pad is up high above the dust of the town. The old Mbumburu house always had a fine coat of dust on everything. Not here. And my lungs are happier. This town is hard on one’s respiratory system.
I’m down by the pool. Connected to what my elderly mother calls the “InterWebs”. I am on-line through my mobile phone. I have done this entire trip with my Telekom Mobile Service as my only means to connect. Pretty cool. Considering that we are in a LDC.
When I was traveling in Korea a few years back I was shocked, amazed even by the speed of the connectivity. I am use to the Aussie system I use more than others. It’s usually quite good but systems can be interrupted. This place things are, slow, slow at best. But it works and it’s pretty cool how well it works.
More wind. I turn the plant that keeps falling. Maybe I’ll lean it into the wind a bit? But, like a small yacht, I fear the weight of the keel is insufficient for the total windage aloft.
A dragon-fly dances over the pool. I like the dainty, aerodynamically impossible movements.
Listening to some newer Bob Dylan I don’t know too well. One line I like… “I wear dark glasses to hide my eyes. They hold secrets I can’t disguise”.
Another line… “Zanzabar ShootingStar was riding in a sidecar”…. what song is that from?
The Ngela Islands are invisible. Savo a very faint outline.
It was good to chat with Joe. He arrived here 18 months before I. Few Expats any more can claim 35 years of life here. I guess we must be getting old.
Some of you may recall that Joe kept a logbook for fish caught from the bar at Lola. We pulled it out and stepped back in time. First entry was early 95. A picture of Joe made us smile. We were all soooo young once.
This land still hold magic, appeal, interest and awe. but, I must ask: What is the future here? Risks ever increase. The only real investors you get coming these days are looking for a killing. In and out quick with a big profit. There are few expats any more “investing in the long-term life style”. Living as a family and joining the golf club and sending the kids to Woodford, with a long-term plan.
I fear Honiara no longer is a “place”, but rather has become an accepted evil. Perhaps like Port Moresby or Nairobi, a place where you go only when they pay you the big bucks? And once you’ve done your contract and banked your roll you move on to brighter horizons?
I must comment that the real bright Solomon Islanders I know are immigrating to Aus and NZ. The engineers n doctors n nurses n teachers I know stay in Aus after they graduate and are highly valued by their employers. And they get to create wealth. They buy a modest home, a car or two. They take holidays “overseas”. Their kids get a good education and they sleep without the threat of riot or coup.
There are some die-hards though. My children have an interesting peer group. Their friends (mostly from Uni days) are the children of successful Honiara based family businesses. Their get-togethers are interesting: We have a Korean family, a Chinese family, a NZ/ Mala family, my yank/ lauru clan, a couple SI mix families, who all have chosen (the young ones) to be here. They work hard, are very smart and capable and are in many ways elbowing their old folks out of the commercial path.
For me I welcome the elbow. I’ve played the commercial game enough. I’d rather go play the role of embarrassing old man.
I know a couple of the families involved here. I know both the youngns and the old folk struggle with the transition. One young friend said to me once “I wish my dad could retire gracefully like you”.
But it’s the ROI which keeps people here, not just the life style. We have an interesting life style, a comfortable life style. But without the ROI it’d make no sense. And even after the ROI, spending your money anywhere but here is a bit of a difficulty. Who wants SBD?
I recently heard investing in the Solomons described as… “Spending 24 hours at the $500.00 table winning big. But when you go to cash your chips in the cashier won’t pay you out”. The point is – if you can’t cash your chips in, whats the point? Unless there is a second generation to keep the show rolling.
A lot is about ‘life style”. Most of these kids have had house keepers all their life. I know my kids have little skill in domestic tidiness. Perhaps they need to live here so they can have house keepers?
In Honiara the life-style is a bit confused and weird, at best. We live behind fences. Noting, that which is behind the fence is pretty comfortable. But we’re behind a fence. We have dogs n guards n house keepers et al. And it is nice but it is weird too.
The roads from here to town, and from town to about anywhere, are terrible. Getting around is a drama.
There is an “edge” here noting that if you get “caught-out” late at night by a random road block of ill purposed outlaws, as Yoda would say, “a happy ending there would be not”.
I mentioned the air quality of the town. Most vehicles belch plumes of black exhaust. I feel bad for the children breathing this lethal mixture of heavy hydrocarbons and a very fine particulate.
Red eye is endemic because of the dust. Rub your eye once in town and you get a visit from conjunctivitis. Asthma and chronic bronchitis are basically a way of life.
But life in the “islands” is different. Gizo is a good spot. As I am sure the other provincial stations remain “good places”.
Used, abused n trampled under foot, but still a good spot. As we all know, the further off the grid you go the more relaxed things get…
off the grid between Gizo n Noro:
Entering the Vona Vona from Noro-way:
And I ponder… as the haze veils the horizon. As the end day sounds of town grow. As the skeeters start to bite…
All is good
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY | Tags: Honiara, Zipolohabu Resort
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
Went to see Joe Entrikan, at Zipolohabu on Lola Island.
Hans, of San Bis fame,
picked Don and I up about noon. A run through the Naru Pass, through the Blackett Straight and past Noro, through the Diamond Narrows, and back home through the Vona Vona Lagoon at sun set.
What a great ride in a magical land… 249am here and I have “taken dink”. I shall write the tale up tomorrow but this is worth sharing…
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
* from DREADNOUGHT – Britain, Germany and the Coming of the Great War
by Robert K. Massie
* Bismark felt that war offered more risks than opportunities; what had been won so brilliantly and swiftly might be lost with equal suddenness… This opposition to war was not based on a concern for human suffering. Rather, he considered war a clumsy way to settle international disputes.
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY | Tags: DREADNOUGHT
I am back in Gizo. Last time I was here was Easter 2011. Been too long. What a great place to wake up! The day is overcast. Not much colour in the sky and sea. Muted is the word that comes to mind. Loads of weather around and it rained heaps yesterday.
I sit on my verandah high on the Gizo hill. I am being accosted by skeeters n sand flies.
I guess all the rain has been good for them little critters that sting n bite.
A young cat purrs around my ankles. Flocks of birds flash past my views, the wind is nonexistent, there is little sound. A chain saw in the distance. A car grinding its way up the hill. An OBM in the harbour. The incessant almost silent vibratory sound of the waves on the reef to the south. A plane just landed on Nusatupe.
Sooooo goooood to be in Gizo!
Yesterday: I loaded the car and left the house about 1215. Took about 10 minutes to get to Point Cruz. Took another 50 minutes to get to Henderson. When my daughter told me to allow an hour to get to the airport I thought she was joking.
Henderson is much the same. Much the same as it was in the 80s, and 90s, and into 2000. A few things have changed but not much. The toilets were “clean” by island standards. They searched my carry on bag before boarding but let me keep the knife on my belt. The pilots have all changed. I used to know the pilots, not any more. But the aircraft have not changed. I am very familiar with the aircraft. It was good to see an old friend.
We left on time and I dozed until outside of Munda. I had thought it’d be nice to look out the window and see if I could recognise the various landmarks I used to know so well. But the plexiglass window was faded and degraded to the point where you can’t see out of it. So dozing was 2nd best choice.
The flight to Munda was uneventful. Lots of weather, which is OK for me, but uneventful.
At Munda a 150kg iKiribati woman with a sick baby came and squeezed me into the corner.
They had been in hospital and were being sent to Honiara.
They had that sick, disinfectant hospital smell of slow death.
It was blazing hot. So for the 15 minutes in the T’wotter it took to get from Munda to Gizo; I was breathing through my nose, sweating bullets and trying not to lose my cookies.
Got to Gizo and raced out of the plane.Was so stomach-sick I didn’t even want a beer.
One thing I always do when I hit Gizo is get down to the sea-side and have a good look and smell around the place. The Gizo harbour smell always has that mariner friendly mix of rotting high tide mark with the tang of salt air and the lingering, back of the throat, taste of outboard motor exhaust.
It was nice.
I was smiling ear to ear as I hopped on a boat owned by my buddy, Hans Mergozzi. Hans has a nice resort on Mbambanga Island.
San Bis is an honest 4 star resort.
Hans is a Swiss guy with high standards.
Whats he doing in the Solomons? Long story. One worth about half a dozen solbrews at his, over the water, bar.
Thats where I went to say g’day. Have a brew and wait for my son, Don, to come pick me up.
So Hans and I catch up on local gossip. It was well past dark, about 630pm when Don showed up. Rain squalls were racing over us. Don arrived soaked n cold. He went next to the wood fired pizza oven, and like a good islander, warmed up.
Coming across the water in the oily black darkness, the air rich with moisture, was a flash back in time. I have done this run so many times. Coming back from fishing or playing or drinking or working. Come past Kennedy island, into the slot next to Nusatupe, bear left and use the hospital as you guided through the slot in the reef there. I am aware of hundreds of propellers that got dinged when I, or someone, got this feat of navigation wrong.
These days the guys use GPS. Saves heaps on propellers.
The seas almost dead flat. The sound of the last squall still audible to the south. The GPS casting a ghostly glow on Don as we snaked through the reefs.
Gizo was lit up like I’d never seen. A feast for the senses. A fairly land of imagination and mystery floating on the black, black sea.
The place looks like a happening and fun venue. Lots of lights. The big, new hospital. All the new houses on the hills. The water front. All cranking and making noise. A new big 2 story pub down on the old KHY corner. PT 109 looking worn but still lit up and open for bizzyness.
The smell of kitchen fires, potatoes roasting and boiling fish. The sour-sweet smell of the effluent rich mangroves which still serve as communal toilets for this bursting metropolis.
It was a sweet welcome home.
So, its about 10am. I should finish my coffee n wander down the road. Maybe take a small boat out for some scouting. See what activity I can find down by the Naru pass or maybe jump into the Vona Vona and check out the islands there. It really doesn’t matter.
The big, fancy boat is not being cooperative and only one engine is working…
So the plan of spending a few days on the water ain’t happening.
But that’s Ok. life is gooood
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
Just talking to a friend about life and magic and the future and dreaming and being human…
A couple good lines came from this…
dreams are what make daily drudgery possible… imagine being a coal miner… hard to dream 4000 feet under ground, or is it? maybe all you do there is dream?
easy to dream in these islands… your horizons are so vast, dreams come handily
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
I was just talking to a friend about the history of this place where I now stand. I can view the coast line of Guadalcanal from Ruanui to Lunga. We have Savo and Ngella floating like gems on the turquoise water. On a clear day you can see San George. The basic area being discussed
I did a quick check on my facts and find that between August 1942 to April 1943 over 40 vessels sank in these water, so aptly called “Iron Bottom Sound”. It’s a bit daunting to bring this all into perspective. The magnitude of the sheer size and volume and quantity, of machines, metals, and mankind… is breathtaking. Over nine months, and over five major sea battles:
Both the Japanese and the Allied forces suffered indescribably as the basically blasted each other out of the water: The major wrecks
And this is only what was sunk! And very importantly does not take into consideration the land or air based troops n battles and suffering. Each battle saw vessels damaged but not sunk. Each battle saw carnage that our modern minds cannot fathom. For a quick reference consider that the Allies lost 1077 men in the battle of Savo alone. Japan lost 58. The battle of Cape Esperance saw 163 allies lost and 454 Japanese killed with 111 captured. The naval battle of Guadalcanal saw 1732 Allies and 1900 Japanese killed. The battle of Tassafaronga saw 395 Allies and 197 Japanese lost. Operation I-Go saw the Allies lose five vessels and 25 aircraft but they basically wiped away the Japanese airpower in the region by destroying 55 Japanese aircraft. And the Japanese “island hopping” was halted. The more I research the more I am stunned by the weight, the magnitude, the sheer horror of those short few months… Far-called our navies melt away—
On dune and headland sinks the fire—
Lo, all our pomp of yesterday
Is one with Nineveh and Tyre!
Judge of the Nations, spare us yet,
Lest we forget—lest we forget!
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY | Tags: Battle of Cape Esperance, Naval Battle of Guadalcanal
.. tells us trouble is brewing.
The word is that a “protest march” from Burns Creek to the government offices is taking place.
The town is shutting down. Schools are being let out. Shop keepers are shitting themselves.People are rushing from East to West/ West to East to get home before the trouble start.
The choppers fly low, long arcs over the town. Rumour has it they have HD photography on these birds and are able to identify perps from 1000 feet.
I spoke to a young guy last night that pointed out to me that the people are not unfairly disgruntled. Millions of dollars have been received for the disaster relief after the floods but people have seen little more than bags of rice. I am told each PM, all 50 of them, each collected a large payment to assist their constituencies. Where is the money?
It is the blatant misuse and abuse that people are rioting over. It is the boredom of youthful life and the lack of opportunities that makes the young folks flock to these get-togethers.
Sore lo Solomoni
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TWO FIRE FIGHTERS FIGHTING THE BLAZE AT UNCLE ALICK SHOP ON FRIDAY NIGHT. (PHOTO: DANNY NAMOSUAIA & CARLOS ARUAFU)
The build-up of Malaitan population on the outskirts of Honiara will always pose a threat to the safety and security of Honiara.
This is a reality that we can no longer deny or pretend is not happening.
Most villages in Malaita today are empty of youths. Only the elderly, mothers, and school-aged children remained here.
The youths have drifted into town in search of jobs that don’t exist.
In Honiara, they are unemployed and rely on relatives, who themselves are struggling to feed their own immediate families.
Some moved in and built makeshift homes on the outskirts of the city. Today, illegal settlements around Honiara are sprawling out of control.
We are not blaming Malaitans here.
What we are saying is this is an issue that needs the urgent attention of our parliamentarians.
Friday night’s looting and rioting in Honiara reminded us of the pressing issue at hand. That we have a very tough and serious situation on our table to deal with.
The troubles were initiated by a few disgruntled so-called flood victims. It became what it was after unemployed youths who were looking for some fun joined in.
That’s the danger of having a large unemployed population in our city.
We’ve witnessed similar incidents in the past. The most recent was early this year when disgruntled youths broke the fence and stormed into the Julian Marley concert venue at Panatina.
In all incidents, Malaitan youths were in the centre of it all.
So where are the Malaitan parliamentarians?
What are they doing about this serious problem of urban migration?
What have they got for their province so that they keep their increasing youth population at home?
What have they done with the millions of dollars given in their care in the name of rural development?
Are the Malaitan MPs in tune with the current trend of youth migration at all?
May we suggest this.
Malaitan MPs should convene an urgent meeting to discuss this issue and map out ways to addressing the lack of development and economic opportunities in the province.
We are sure if there are economic and job opportunities in the province, many of the unemployed youths who daily roam the streets of Honiara aimlessly would not be taking the trouble to come over to the city.
Honiara is a now a cramped city.
The unwillingness of Guadalcanal landowners to allow for further expansion of the town boundary means the population will just have to make do with the current space.
The solution is to spread development to the provinces. Politicians always talk about this, but they never act on it.
What we are seeing instead is almost every development project they talked about always comes back to Honiara.
Friday night’s disturbances warned us again that we cannot continue down that path.
Parliamentarians must wake up to the truth and seriously address Honiara’s high unemployment rate and increasing youth urban migration.
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
Ok, I feel a bit weird in that I can refer back, in both memory and photos, to what is now something like two decades of riot tourism.
Do you remember PJ O’Rourke”s Holidays in Hell book? I kind’a feel like that. Being a tourist to a riot… and it’s not the first time… Thats the sad part
I recall distinctly the Police Station stoned to tinder after a soccer match between Malaita and Ren-Bel. I am thinking that was 1994. It was a saturday and I’d been golfing. As I came home about 5pm the rioters cleared a path so I could drive through. I love polite rioters.
Was it about 96/ 97 when the market was trashed by someone writing swear words in Malaitan at the Market?
Golly, was it the late 80s when the prisoners broke out n ran through town smashing windows and getting drunk?
I had family visiting from overseas in December 98 when the first shots were fired. We were being tourists and hanging around the main market when shots were fired and crowed rushed in the direction of the firing. My brother was a lifer- army officer and was shocked, dismayed and instinctively ran the other direction. My mother, ever the super-mom, and like a fine island matron, started off with the crowds to see what was happening.
And from there on… like a bad habit one can’t break: Something happens; a sporting event, a concert, an election, a natural disaster… and we riot.
Not a good habit. Worse than biting your nails or even farting public.
But as I do this day’s riot tourism trek I see business as usual for a slow Sunday in the big Mango. Little evidence of the riots can be seen but for the gutted store fronts at the KGVI corner…
Mendana Ave, Pt Cruz:
Central Market:
KGVI corner, burnt out shops on the left:
Funny one… last night my 30 yr old daughter went out. I was a bit concerned but who can tell children, let alone 30 yr olds, what to do. I stayed up late to hear her come home. And it was late. Well after midnight. I spoke to her this morn and asked if she was at all concerned. Her reply made perfect Island Sense… “It was raining so there would be no trouble. Rioters won’t go out in the rain”.
Sad buy funny.
And strangely life is good. Confused. Fudged up. Unpredictable, but good.
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
http://solomonstarnews.com/news/national/1954-friday-night-s-rioting-is-well-planned
FIRE FIGHTERS STRUGGLE TO PUT OUT THE FIRE ON FRIDAY NIGHT. (PHOTO: DANNY NAMOSUAIA & CARLOS ARUAFU)
The rioting that occurred on Friday night seemed well planned and speaks volume of the lawlessness that still exists in the country and especially in certain communities like Burns Creek.
Late Friday afternoon, it was reported that certain individuals went and stole some money from one of the shops at the King George area.
In Chinatown, shop owners who were alerted of the threat quickly closed their doors and called it a day.
By 7.30pm disgruntled men broke into shops just opposite to the King George bus stop(formerly known as Uncle Alick) and started looting.
The looters went and served themselves with whatever they can get hold of.
Along the road to Burns Creek you can see men, women and children carrying what are believed to be stolen from the shops.
After the looters emptied the shop around 8.30pm, they set the building on fire.
Eye witnesses said they were surprised to see these looters loot with ease, comfort, without fearing anything.
“They acted like people just walking away with something they own and went back home,” one eye witness said.
“Surprisingly there was no presence of the police the whole time this incident happened. Police came nearly four hours later when the building was already emptied and set alight,” another eye witness said.
Describing it as a moment of madness, the police and authorities totally failed the business people whose properties were destroyed.
Sources close to this paper revealed that those involved in the Friday night rioting were disgruntled men from the recent flash floods who used to reside at the Panatina pavilion, whose demands were not met by the government and relevant authorities.
The incident seemed to have shocked and caught the police by surprise.
On their arrival the Police Response team managed to move the angry mob back to the Burns Creek Area.
The fire service too were there trying to put out the fire, but they came too late.
The Sunday Star closely followed the police as they took on the mob.
As fire fighters worked to put off the fire, the Police Response Team (PRT) too was facing resistance from the angry mob who put a few road blocks starting from the SIFF academy and on towards Burns Creek.
Although the fire fighters tried to save part of the building, they couldn’t for reasons that they were only using two fire trucks and that they havd to ran all the way to collect water from an outlet near Tanakake road close to Bishop Brothers warehouse which took too much time.
Two fire trucks were seen on the night but could not save the building. However the fire fighters managed to control the fire from spreading to other nearby buildings.
Whilst the fire fighters were struggling with the fire, the Police Response Team(PRT) continued to push the angry mob backwards using tear gas.
It was a very tense and dangerous situation ever to happen at night and in the mob’s territory which posed a very high risk to police’ lives.
The assistance of a chopper flying over the scene helped the police to find their targets.
During the course of the encounter, the rioters nearly overthrew the PRT, forcing them to retreat from the King George Market to the King George bus stop a much safer place for the police to station with watchful eyes.
It was a really tense and testing time for the PRT who for the first time faced such a situation, having to do all they could to keep the angry mob from causing any more problems to innocent people and properties.
The PRT remained alert for the entire night till day break.
The roads were cleared for traffic at 7am on Saturday.
The incident left many people stranded on both ends of town.
This paper, which is printed at our Lungga centre, could not make it to print until 8am yesterday.
The rioters made several road blocks from the KG Sixth school to Burns Creek but these were cleared off by daybreak.
BY DANIEL NAMOSUAIA
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
While I was in my hermitage the town was rioting…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAM-5nbCSv0&noredirect=1
http://tvnz.co.nz/world-news/flood-victims-riot-in-solomon-islands-5974284
Sore lo Solomoni
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It’s been over a month since huge amounts of rain caused huge amounts of damage in Honiara.
And my tank is empty.
I find reference to some 1500mm, 1.5 meters, or almost 6 feet of rain falling in this region the 3rd, 4th and 5th of April. That is huge, huge, huge in real terms… 6 feet of water falling in under 72 hours… !!!
I bought water yesterday.
It rained a bit last night. It has been threatening to rain all day. The sky is promising. There is weather in the wind…
But it only drizzles here.
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
I have been bouncing around Honiara these last few days. I admit I am not “good” for the long, difficult trips “through” town. I guess I am a fair-weather friend of Honiara. I park at the post office and ensure I don’t need anything from the east side of the Mataniko. If I do I send my Admin Manager/ my daughter.
What do I see…
Lots of people. Thats for sure. This is not the Honiara of the 80s or 90s or even the 2000s. This is a busy, active, mobile Honiara.
I was thinking today, as I sat in the very nice and clean Solomon Telekom offices getting my phone service sorted out, how bitch’n the girls look. I’m not coming from a dirty old-guy/ perv position. No, the girls, ladies, females of the town are by and large pretty classy looking. High-ish heels, nice outfits, big smiles and nice hair-doos. I like it a lot considering that when I hit these streets the female standard dress code was a cotton mother hubbard type affair. Straight from the methodist style gurus of the day.
I see a middle class. I see an urban middle class.
I bumped into an old buddy from the Gizo days of the 80s… Gabby was a police man. Originally from Makira, Gabe was walking past Rove on his way to town. I surprised him by calling his name. It’d been a decade or two since we have met. So I holler at him as he walks to the main road… An ugly white guy in a dirty truck… I think my voice more than my looks triggered his recognition. It was a short but meaningful encounter: Gabe is retired and happy to be such. He owns a place above Rove, has educated 4 kids through university level, and now helps care for some 6 grandkids. I asked him about “home”, going “back” to Makira. His reply? “Here now home, ia”.
I see a lot of hanging around. A lot of what appears to be aimless loitering. A policeman I know calls it loitering with intent. I’m not sure. I smell a boredom. A less than articulate-able illness. Most young guys I have seen show no sign of self-respect in their dress. I, perhaps unfairly, feel a loss, a helpless, a disenfranchisement which goes to the male bone of these young men. But I see that childish Solomoni twinkle in they eyes and capitalise on it.
My upper body is 100% inked. It’s taken me 30 years or so to achieve this but the body-art from my elbows, up and over to my chest and back are, I feel, quite eye-catching. My ink is of the Maori tradition, Te Moko”. Lots of curves and obscure symbols, flowing like the ocean or the fern or the meaning of life. All in monochrome. No cartoons, no names or colour. Just, what I like to feel is, traditional ink.
I “wear” my ink so am knocking around town in a cotton singlet. I get a lot of these “lost-guys” engaging with me solely because they are attracted to the ink. I note that most westerners will basically ignore the ink. Act as though its common or nothing to comment upon. But here it is different. The tribal nature of my ink brings smiles n comments. So I briefly engage with a fair number of folks as I walk Mendana Avenue. And it is positive.
The roads are dirty, dusty, unkept, uncared for. The round-a-bouts n median strips are often sponsored by some business. These are rather nice but they glare in the light of the unkept-ness of it all.
There are terrible blots, like festering sores, on the landscape… The concrete monstrosity that used to be Town Ground. A general con deal. Who was conning whom is unclear but the town lost a parkland and now has a huge, ugly, unfinished mess. As well, the old, old, old buildings that are still in use accost the senses. The old Pink Palaces are slums of a highaccord. Lord knows what the interior of these places are but I’d think that 4 stories of life without power or water may be a bit dire.
There is not adequate parking in town, and with the large number of cars on the minimal roads, the inevitable result is chaos. Cars park on sidewalks, any and all spare mud puddles, and even in the road-way. A lot of town has seen open places, sold off, fenced off and closed to the public. There is little public land any more so a two lane road with parking on the shoulder becomes 2 lanes of confused parking and a snarl or traffic along side.
But I still like it. Though I no longer belong to the culture of the streets of Honiara, I don’t feel threatened. I see a lot of families, young gals, et al walking the byways. I see mostly smiles. And the absence of a smile normally comes from an obviously disgruntled male. I met one on Hibiscus Avenue. A big bloke. A snarl on his face. My guess is he was a bit drunk. He made a bee-line for me as I walked between cars parked on the side of the road. A white man was a target for this guy and I was it. As I came around the cars and walked up to him, his face changed to a beaming smile. My ink had made him smile. He wanted some. He wanted to talk, be my friend.
And it made me smile.
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We all do it. Don’t lie.
And this is what it looks like…
A broken right toe for my efforts. Hurts like the dickens…
Posted in DATED COMMENTARY
For those who met him, he was a strange dude. For those who knew him he was still strange but a good man. And his passing will mean the New Gorgia area of the Western provice has lost it’s last true leader…
HEAD OF CFC, REVEREND SIR IKAN ROVE DIES
AFTER ILLNESS
The head of the Christian Fellowship Church His Grace, the Reverend Sir Ikan Rove has passed away yesterday after a long illness.
A member of the Church told SIBC News Sir Ikan Rove died at his home village in Duvaha, North New Georgia, Western Province.
Sir Ikan who was known by the title “Spiritual Authority” to his followers, took over the leadership of the CFC Church in 1984 from his father Silas Eto.
For almost 30 years he led more than fifteen thousand followers who live in more than forty villages in the Western Province.
To date, the church is the sixth largest denomination in the Solomon Islands.
In 2005, Sir Ikan was made a Knight Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, KBE, in recognition for services to his country.
He is survived by his wife, four sons, a daughter and grandchildren.
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